2010 Honda Fury Project II – Cobra Pipes

February 12, 2010
Bryan Harley
Bryan Harley
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Our resident road warrior has earned his stripes covering the rally circuit, from riding the Black Hills of Sturgis to cruising Main Street in Daytona Beach. Whether it's chopped, bobbed, or bored, metric to 'Merican, he rides 'em all.

Climb on! Our 2010 Honda Fury project bike is running like a hot rod now. Next well work on cleaning up her bars and backside.
The Cobra Speedster Swept pipes not only complement the lines of the Fury much better than the stock arrangement, they provide more punch as well.
Cobra Speedster pipe kit

We were pumped with the results from the first round of upgrades on our Honda Fury project bike. Who wouldn’t like 4.86 lb-ft of torque and 10.24 more horsepower to uncork? With our AFT Customs High Performance Cam and Piston Kit and our Roger Goldammer G Force Smooth Air Filter in place, it was time for the next piece to the performance puzzle. Cobra Engineering Inc. stepped up with a set of its Speedster Swept Swept exhaust ($689.95) and a Fi2000R ($234.95) fuel management system to ensure that our pipes are running lean and clean.

Taking stock of inventory, the kit for the Cobra Speedsters comes with a front headpipe and heatshield, a combo rear headpipe and muffler with a heatshield, a mounting bracket, one headpipe flange, eight hose clamps of assorted sizes, two big hex bolts for the mounting bracket and a couple of smaller hex flange bolts and nuts. You’ll need to save the stock acorn nuts when you pull the OEM pipes off, but otherwise Cobra has provided everything you’ll need for a quick install.

One word to the wise. The first step in the instruction manual says to remove the stock system and the stock exhaust mount. I just glanced at the directions then removed the pipes first before realizing the stock mount needed to come off, too. So don’t be a dummy like me and add extra work. Removing the OEM pipe and exhaust mount separately did bring to light how heavy the stock mount is. I’d say the Cobra exhaust mount bracket is a couple pounds lighter, easy.

One of the first things to do when installing Cobra Speedsters is to remove the stock pipes from the cylinder.
One of the first thing’s to do when installing Cobra’s Speedsters is to remove the stock pipes from the cylinders.
Save the stock acorn nuts when you pull off the OEM pipes because youll need them to tighten down the new flanges.

With the old pipes and mounting bracket removed and the four acorn nuts from the stock headpipes safely stored, the first step is to replace the old bracket. The Cobra mounting bracket lines up perfectly with the stock mounting holes, so it’s just a matter of threading the M10 X 70mm bolt into the top and the M10 X 45mm bolt into the bottom. Threading the bottom bolt into the nut can be a little tricky because the space is tight and it’s difficult to grip it flush from behind. But you don’t have to torque the bolts down just yet, so at this point all you have to do is get it threaded.

Next we loosened up the right footpeg assembly to give us a little more room to slip the front headpipe on. With a little wiggling, the exhaust flange for the front headpipe slipped right in and we bolted it on the cylinder using two of the stock acorn nuts. After that, we took the largest clamp in the kit and slid it onto the lower muffler slip collar and then mated the rear headpipe/muffler with the front headpipe. With the pipes connected, we lined the rear headpipe with the rear exhaust port and bolted it down with the two remaining stock acorn nuts.

The muffler assembly is then bolted to the mounting bracket. So far, all the bolts we’ve applied are threaded on but haven’t been torqued down. After making sure our pipes are parallel and looking tight, we go about tightening the exhaust mounting bracket to the frame first, followed by the four acorn nuts on the exhaust flanges, and then finally tightening the muffler down to the exhaust bracket.

All that remains is to open the hose clamps so they can be fed into the slots on the inside of the heatshields so that they can be attached to the pipes. With this done, carefully slide the heatshields on. Do the larger front heatshield first, then the back before tightening down all the clamps. Go over everything you’ve bolted down once more, remember to tighten the right side footpeg back up, and you’re almost good to go. Cobra suggests that you wipe down the pipes to remove any fingerprints before firing your bike up that could cause discoloration to your shiny new pipes.

Power and grace. The Cobra Speedster Swept exhaust add a little of both to our 2010 Honda Fury project bike.

Stepping back to check out our work, what an improvement the Cobra Speedster pipes make. Where the old exhausts were straight and bulky, the sweep of the new Cobras complement the smooth lines of the 2010 Honda Fury much better. The bend of the pipes matches the roundness of the rear seat, fender and continues the front-to-back flow established by the Fury’s tank and the Goldammer air filter. Better yet, just wait till you hear these babies. The mellow purr of the OEM pipes is gone. In its place is a nasty growl, a hearty pulse you can feel when riding. The note is rich and full without being over-the-top loud. It definitely instilled our Fury project bike with more attitude.

To get the most out of our new Speedsters, we installed a Cobra Fi2000 to ensure a premium air/fuel mixture. Again, convenience is the name of the game. Cobra has made the process relatively pain-free. We were at

Cobra Fi2000
    Cobra Fi2000

an advantage from the start because of Goldammer’s air filter which left the stock injector connectors to the Fi2000 plugs already exposed. Otherwise, four bolts are all that hold the right side air cleaner cover in place.

The rest is a matter of running the wires of the Fi2000 from the left side where it’s mounted to the stock injector connectors that are accessed through the right side of the engine. Unplug the OEM connector on the front cylinder first and the Fi2000 injector connector plugs right in. Do the same for the rear, attach a ground cable to the ‘Negative’ battery post and then check your three settings by taking off the little door of the Fi2000. The green light setting makes adjustment for the cruising range, the middle yellow setting is an engine load-triggered fuel-adding adjustment, and the red setting is for fuel delivery at maximum rpm. The only thing you have to worry about is whether the three lights come on when you turn on the ignition. The Fi2000 comes pre-configured from the factory, so there’s no computer downloads or dyno testing required. All three should light up when you turn the ignition on. When you start the bike, only the green remains on. If you’ve got green, everything’s hooked up correctly. All that’s left is to mount the Fi2000 with the Velcro Cobra provides to the inside of the battery box cover and you’re good to go.

The Cobra Speedster pipes not only complement the lines of the Fury much better  but they provided 3.92 lb-ft more torque and 4.73 more hp.
New pipes for old, new pipes for old! The Cobra Speedsters added instant attitude to our Fury project.

Now the fun part. A twist of the wrist and the Fury project bike has no problem spinning its wheels. It’s got a much more powerful hit around two grand and the powerband is broader. The feel at the throttle is much livelier and fuel delivery is even throughout the powerband. It runs, sounds, and feels more like a hot rod. Throwing it on the dyno again, the Cobra Speedster pipes gave us 3.92 lb-ft of torque and 4.73 hp more than before. Overall, the engine hop-up, new intake, pipes and fuel management system were good for a 12.3% increase in torque and a 26.7% increase in horsepower.
We’ve got the Honda Fury project running the way we want it now, so next we plan on cleaning up the bars and back end a little. Grip ACE is sending us a digital switch system for the controls on the bars, while RAW Design has a Stealth LED system for the backside so we can ditch the stock taillights. Just got word that Low and Mean may have some steel fenders and we talked to RC Components’ Chris Cross about getting some wheels for it while we were at the recent V-Twin Expo. Cutting Edge Illusions, who did the trick paint job on our CBR600RR project bike, is on board for some new paint as well. So stay tuned, there’s plenty more cool stuff coming for our 2010 Honda Fury Project Bike.

Performance Gains Measured on a Dynojet Dynamometer Model 200i:

Stock Torque Output – Torque 71.32 lb-ft @3100 rpm  HP 56.23 hp @ 4300 rpm
With new Pistons, Cams, Intake – Torque 76.18 lb-ft @3600 rpm  HP 66.47 @ 5100 rpm
With new Pistons, Cams, Intake, Cobra Speedster Pipes & Fi2000 – Torque 80.13 lb-ft @  3600 rpm 
HP 71.25 hp @ 5150 rpm
Gain from pipes alone – 3.92 lb-ft torque 4.73 hp
Total Gains – 8.78 lb-ft of Torque and 15.02 hp

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