Start by removing the counter shaft sprocket nut before you remove the chain, especially if you don’t have an impact wrench. You can use the rear brake to keep the counter shaft sprocket from turning so you can remove the nut. If your sprocket is held on by a circlip, use circlip pliers to tackle the job. When reinstalling and tightening the nut on your new countershaft sprocket, use the chain on method so you can use the rear brake to keep the sprocket from turning. In case you don’t have your owner’s manual, manufacture torque recommendations are as follows: Honda 23 ft-lbs with Loctite, KTM 44 ft-lbs with Loctite, Yamaha 54 ft-lbs with Loctite, Kawasaki 450 93 ft-lbs without Loctite.
Removing the master link can be done a few different ways. A common way is to use a pair of pliers and squeeze it off as shown. You can use a screwdriver to push it off but that isn’t as consistent as the plier method. Sometimes the side plate needs some help from a screwdriver to pry off.
This chain was severely worn out! Save the old chain, you are going to use it to measure your new one. Line up the new chain next to the old one. Make sure you start at one end and keep the pins lined up. If you just lay them next to each other the stretched old chain with give you a false reading. You are matching the number of links. This will also clearly show you how stretched your old chain really was.
There is more than one way to skin a cat, but the easiest way to take links out of a chain is with a chain tool. We use Motion Pro’s PBR chain tool, which can handle rivet chains that do not have master links. The other way to remove extra links when replacing your chain is a grinder, grinding down the pin and side plate a little and use a hammer and punch to get the pin out. The use of a chain tool is much easier and safer. Instructions included with the chain tool are clear and easy to follow for pushing the pin out of the side plates.
Before installing the chain, turn in the chain adjusters, your new chain, even though it is the same number of links will be shorter since it isn’t stretched out. Feed the chain around and get ready to install the master link.
The new side plate on the master link can be tight when reinstalling, especially on an O-ring chain so use some pliers to help squeeze it into position. To install the master link clip use pliers to squeeze it on. Install the clip with the opening facing away from the direction of rotation. If the opening of the master link is facing the direction of rotation it can catch and rip off. Not good for having fun on your dirt bike. Adjust your chain according to the manufacturer’s recommendations and of course tighten your axle nut!
We went with Renthal sprockets and chain. Renthal recommends blue Loctite on the sprocket bolt threads when reinstalling the nuts and bolts. Recommended sprocket bolt nut torque is about 25 ft-lbs. You can see just how worn out our old stock sprocket was when compared to the new one.